 
ritten
history illustrates that the region where cacao was grown was important at
least as long ago as the Aztec Empire. Different locations commanded
different prices in the local markets, a tradition that was quickly
recognized by European connoisseurs as well. Although cacao was virtually
a genetic monotype (Criollo) until the 18th century, beans from a
handful of locations were prized for their quality. In particular, those
from Caracas, Maracaibo and the estate of Chuao in Venezuela were coveted
for their complex, intense flavors. Named Porcelana for its white or light
colored beans, a sub-type of the Criollo strain from Western Venezuela
often commanded the highest price.
As
the Spanish carried Criollo cacao along the Equator, first to the
Caribbean and then on to Indonesia, Java, the Philippines and Malaysia
(where local hybrids still show a strong Criollo influence), and
the Portuguese brought Brazilian Forastero to West Africa, the
variety in type and quality of cacao increased exponentially. Slowly, for
many reasons, the thread linking chocolate back to place began to unravel.
Crossbreeding,
both intentional and natural, of Criollo and Forastero
varieties, and eventually with their offspring, Trinitario, muddied
the waters. Seedlings from one region were transported to others and then
back again. One geneotype was no longer necessarily the only tree growing
in a specific region. Forastero soon came to dominate cacao-growing
regions across the globe. Notable exceptions are Venezuela, small areas in
Ecuador, portions of Chiapas, Mexico, Nicaragua and the mountains of
Belize. As more growers switched to the lower-quality, disease-resistant Forastero,
the benefit of touting origin and varietal was lessened
|
|
Predominant Bean Varietal(s) by Region
|
|
South America
|
| Venezuela |
Criollo & Criollo/Trinitario |
| Ecuador |
Forastero* |
| Brazil |
Forastero |
|
Mexico & Caribbean
|
| Mexico |
Forastero |
| Grenada |
Forastero |
| Trinidad |
Forastero |
|
Africa
|
| Ivory Coast |
Forastero |
| Ghana |
Forastero |
| Nigeria |
Forastero |
| Madagascar |
Trinitario |
|
Indian Ocean
|
| Java |
Criollo/Trinitario |
| Sulawesi |
Forastero |
| New Guinea |
Trinitario |
| Malaysia |
Forastero |
* Arriba beans from a region in Ecuador, while classified as
Forastero, are highly valued as a "flavor bean" |
| Manufacturing
"advances" furthered the divorce from place. The separation of
cocoa butter from cocoa solids in 1828 by Conrad Van Houten of the
Netherlands fractured the components of a bean and allowed the content to
be manipulated. His innovation of treating the cocoa powder with alkali to
make it mix more easily further erased the impact of lineage. Around the
same time, the addition of milk solids to chocolate continued the blurring
of origin.
However,
fine chocolatiers still sought out higher-quality beans well into the
first half of the last century. It was only with the move to large-scale
manufacturing that origin virtually disappeared. The benefit of product
consistency, along with a need for secrecy fostered by unbridled
competition, resulted in the conscious anonymity of chocolate. Brand
reputation supplanted region reputation as chocolate's origin was hidden
from more and more consumers.
It
was only recently that chocolate makers have again acknowledged the
superiority of certain origins and have begun producing single-source
chocolates. The chart above may help simplify an extremely complex
mélange of varietal and origin. However, even on a single plantation, the
genetic lines between varietals are not distinct. Almost without
exception, trees from one origin (no matter how narrowly defined) are a
blend. Therefore, the chart above represents only the dominant strain in a
given place, recognizing there will be variations.
|
